Restaurant Review- Zucca

Ever since I moved to London, I've always been lucky enough to live just a stone's throw away from that narrow little culinary gold mine that is Bermondsey Street. Full of ultra-hip, loft-living, open plan apartments above. Packed with great restaurants, bars and pubs below.

Zucca is a cool, crisp, modern Italian restaurant with smooth, chic, minimalist interior design to match. Full length windows showcase the brilliant white tables, soft lighting and open gallery kitchen which means diners are just steps away from the very engine room that slickly turns out well-balanced and thoughtful dishes. All seemed nicely presented but without any sense of pretension. Seeing the kitchen operate in such a calm, methodical and ultimately successful way, is for me, something to marvel at and enjoy. Especially when it's producing dishes like we ordered. Simplicity in gastronomic form; flavour in abundance.














We began with mozzarella with roast fennel and carpaccio of sea bass (both £4-75). However, we were first offered a plate a wonderful Italian breads and grissini (the focaccia in particular was delicious) with a great dipping olive oil. The mozzarella was, as one would expect, wonderfully rich and creamy with a slightly sour tang. The fennel was perfectly roasted; slightly sweet and nicely strong in aniseed flavour. The carpaccio which was plentiful and topped with salt, pepper, olive oil, lemon juice and finely diced chillies was also flavoursome; the amount of chilli nicely handled. And with both at such a reasonable price, they were very hard to fault.

Main courses were veal chop with lemon and spinach (£16) and swordfish with courgette and pumpkin (£14-95). The huge veal chop was clearly of very high quality and was perfectly cooked (the outside being lightly charred yet still pink inside). Served very simply on a bed of wilted spinach with lemon, it was a lesson in cooking with restraint. The same can be said for the sword fish which was meaty and worked brilliantly with the vegetables that had a delicious sweet and sour element.

Although you won’t get a dessert menu at Zucca (the waiter reels off a list of what’s currently on offer), it certainly doesn’t mean you’ll have to go without your sugar fix. We had a moist, almond packed, blood orange cake (£4-95) which was drizzled in the most delicious blood orange syrup and a glass of Vin Santo dessert wine with cantucci (£10). You’ll also find an impressively comprehensive and thoughtfully compiled wine list which has led to the owner/chef Sam Harris being able to call his enterprise the Decanter Magazine Restaurant of the Year. Yes, you can break the bank on what they offer, but you certainly don’t have to. And with prices for food so reasonable, you might feel able to drink a better wine with it. Our wine was a smoky and mineral Fiano di Avellino, a complex white from Campania, which was described accurately by the sommelier.


A fantastic experience which was (at the risk of repeating myself) brilliant value. Even if it weren’t only five minutes walk away, I would certainly be returning for another visit.


Rating- 9/10

Zucca, 184 Bermondsey Street, London SE1 3TQ

http://www.zuccalondon.com/


GastroTom

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Easy Recipe- Mozzarella di Bufala Campana with Roasted Fennel

Ingredients:

Serves 2

250-400g Mozzarella di bufala Campana (depending on appetite)
2-3 bulbs of fennel (depending on size)
Olive oil (extra-virgin for dressing but standard will do for roasting)
1/2 tsp fennel seeds
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Just a quick little something that you can put together in not too long and instantly feel like you've been transported back to the heady days of last summer when the daylight was plentiful, the weather was lovely (sometimes) and everything felt a little bit easier than it does right now, here, in the depths of the ever so dark winter.

I absolutely love Mozzarella and in particular that which comes from the milk di bufala (buffalo, for the non-Italian speakers). The combination of rich creaminess and lactic tanginess combine to create what must surely be one of the greatest cheeses that Man has ever managed to create.

The word mozzarella is applied to what are, in reality, very different types of cheese. Ranging from the bland pre-grated type that you can get for sprinkling on pizzas, to the small milky balls of cows' milk cheese stored in whey, most commonly found in supermarkets. Well, aside from similarities in production, Mozzarella di bufala Campana is a whole different product all together. Well, in my eyes at least.

The Campana part refers to the DOP (controlled denomination) on the product meaning that one can only call and market your product as Mozzarella di bufala Campana if it is made in the Campania region of Italy. With family roots in this very area of Italy (near Napoli to be more precise) I have long been aware of its capacity for amazing food production; this glorious cheese is no exception.

The cheese is made entirely of buffalo milk which is richer than cows' milk and so imparts a more buttery flavour. The mozzarella I bought came in a plait, but it can also be found shaped into balls, cylinders and little bites known as bocconcini. The skin on the outside should be a brilliant white, with the inside always slightly less so. In texture, it's slightly springy but also should have a very "melt in the mouth" quality. Taste wise, the best will be milky as well as having the crucial slightly sour, lactic tang that elevates it to a whole new level of complexity. The cheese is actually created by heating to separate the curd and whey before the curd is then stretched using a process that the Italians call pasta filata. This involves kneading the curds almost like a baker with bread dough until the there is a smooth consistency.

Nothing needs to be done to the mozzarella except to tear it open so that it forms a bed on which to place your fennel. The quality of the mozzarella, of course, dictates the quality of your meal, so really do shop around and try and find a really high-quality one. Try specialist cheese shops or Italian delicatessens. I got mine this time from Lina Stores in Soho.

Remove your mozzarella from the fridge a while before cooking. The best way to enjoy it is roughly at room temperature. Now prepare your fennel bulbs simply by chopping off the stalks at the top and the base at the bottom. Also remove any hard outer layers. Now chop the fennel into the size of pieces you desire. In the picture, I cut quite small pieces but it's easiest to just quarter them . Cover them in olive oil, salt, pepper and a sprinkling of fennel seeds. You could also try adding some finely chopped chilli if you wanted but I didn't want the heat to over power my mozzarella which is really the star of the show.

Place them in a baking tray and into a preheated oven at 200c/400f/ gas mark 6 for about 30 minutes. Cover them with foil for this time before removing it and leaving for another 10-15 minutes. If you're pieces are smaller you should reduce the cooking time accordingly. Try to keep an eye on your fennel because although the roasting really does a lot to sweeten the aniseed flavour, a minute too long and they can over cook and taste burnt and unpleasant.

Once cooked, remove from the pan and sit on top of your cheese before drizzling some extra virgin olive oil on top. Maybe serve with some crusty Italian bread and/or some roquette.

Pretty simple. Pretty delicious.


GastroTom

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