Restaurant Review- Mishkin's

I feel like I should start this review with a little disclaimer. I am no expert on Jewish cuisine. I have only a little experience of the kind of New York City deli that this new venture from the people behind Polpo, Spuntino et al seems to try to emulate. If you're looking, perhaps as a New Yorker or a Manhattanophile, for an assessment of Mishkin's authenticity, I'm afraid that judgement is way above my pay grade. I could not begin to tell you. What I feel more able to do is to judge the restaurant on its merits; all the usual things that I would take into account, and let me tell you, it seemed pretty good to me.

We walked in without a reservation, but were seated quickly at the bar. The fixtures and the furnishings all appear to be pretty authentic. A brilliant silver, polished U-shaped bar towards the entrance with banquette seating in the main dining area. It's a pretty compact space, but well utilised without making it feel overly cramped. Little details like plastic jugs of water and diner-style condiment receptacles add to that NYC-feeling. 

Where I'm pretty sure that Mishkin's fails in authenticity is its large cocktail list (with a particular focus on gin) and its offering of pork hot dogs on the menu. This place definitely isn't kosher. But, to be fair, it never claims to be. It also never claims to be an attempt to transport wholly the New York deli experience to Covent Garden, describing itself as "a kind-of Jewish deli with cocktails." And that's certainly fine with me. 

We ordered a Reuben sandwich and a Brick Lane salt beef sandwich (both £9) from a menu offering the likes of chopped livers, lox beigel, meat balls, latkes and meat loaf. The Reuben (pastrami, swiss cheese, sauerkraut and Russian dressing) came toasted and was delicious. I have heard that the level of toasting on the bread is too much to be authentic, but like I said, does it really matter when this is only "a kind of Jewish deli?"

We also had the Brick Lane salt beef sandwich. We asked for it with fat, which I would definitely recommend. I would be concerned that the beef may be too dry without. This was served simply with mustard and pickle. Whilst the Reuben was more complex in terms of flavours, I couldn't fault the salt beef sandwich for delivering a big gutsy punch of meaty flavour. We had these with chips (£3) and onion rings (£4) which were both good in their field and charmingly served in little chinoiserie bowls.


I guess if I was turning up expecting to be well and truly taken on a magical trip to the London branch of Katz's deli, I may have left feeling disappointed. I might also have left annoyed were I a particular Jewish food expert, or indeed someone who grew up with their mother's versions of these very dishes. But, from the way I saw it, Mishkin's delivered on everything I wanted from it; a welcoming atmosphere, a fun, stylish restaurant and simple food, cooked very well. What more can you ask for?

Rating- 8/10


Mishkin's
25 Catherine Street
London WC2B 5JS


GastroTom


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